The Peloponnese, Greece
In stark contrast to the dramatic blue and white villages in the Greek Islands, the Peloponnese represents the earthy heart of mainland Greece. Located on the far west of the country, its coastline stretches along the Mediterranean and there is a strange familiarity in the olive and terracotta hues that you often see filter their way down the Adriatic. The pace of life really slows down here too and although there is a lot to see and do, there is also time to take a deep breath and settle down into a good book amongst fragrant orange groves.
Kalamata is the largest city in the Peloponnese and it only takes ten minutes in a taxi from the airport before you are right in the centre. The city itself feels local, with more high street shops and market stalls than souvenir shops, but don’t let that put you off. There are still many places where you can buy the famous Kalamata olives in the old part of town. Park by the cathedral and within a few minutes walking towards the coast you will find yourself in the narrow streets of Kalamata, dipping in and out of cafes and shops selling local delicacies. If you have time, make sure to climb to the top of the castle. It is only €3 to enter and not a large site, but the view is well worth it as you walk in the fresh air amongst old ruins on a carpet of pine needles between the trees. There are often art festivals held there (we were lucky enough to catch the local sculpture festival while there) as well as music concerts.
The beaches can be busy with both locals and tourists, the main strip along Navarinou is a patchwork of sunbeds and water sports centres. There are many hotels along this stretch, but I would personally recommend staying slightly further out of town. The Messinian Icon (https://messinianicon.gr, doubles from £90- Sept 2020) is only fifteen minutes away, yet it is set high in the hills and you feel secluded from the busy beaches, which you overlook as part of the expansive view of the bay. The hotel was only opened in 2019 and there is a bright, modern feel to the interior design as well as wonderfully new gym facilities and spa. There are only twenty six rooms so the service feels personal, but still highly professional. The island sunbeds in the main pool (there are two pools) are a common place to find Instagram influencers posing with a range of fabulous cocktails in hand. A very short drive further up the hill and you arrive at Kastraki - Meteoro (http://www.kastraki-meteoro.gr/en/index_en.html ), a restaurant and bar set within a purpose built castle and cliffside amphitheatre. At sunset, you will have to drag your eyes away from the setting to look at the menu, but you really must do as the food is just as wonderful. The bar also serves small bites and snacks, but the restaurant serves a full menu and is highly recommended. I would also recommend booking in advance to get a seat at the front of the terrace and then after dinner recline to the soft cushions in the amphitheatre bar to enjoy a cocktail and sway to the chilled vibes from the DJ below.
The region is full of spots for natural swimming, whether you like bathing in the turquoise Mediterranean sea or fancy delving deep into the luscious forests to splash about in some of the many waterfalls. You can comfortably fit both of these experiences into one day, starting with a trip to Voidokilia beach early in the morning. It is about an hour and a half to the north - west of Kalamata and the beach is in a small bay, protected by the wind by the cliffs at the narrow inlet. There are no facilities here, you pass a few cafes on the small country road to the beach but once you arrive it is very much just you and nature. It does get popular with the locals, particularly in the summer months, so aim to get here for about 9am if you can to make the most of the peace. If you walk to the far side of the beach, you can climb up one of the sand dunes to look back at the geographical wonder. If you want an even better view, why not drive up to the old fortress at the top of the cliff overlooking the beach. In the afternoon, on the way back to Kalamata make sure to stop at Polylimnio waterfalls. These are well known in the local area, and free to visit. You will need to have sturdy footwear (don’t be fooled by other people in flip-flops-you will need trainers/walking shoes) for the climb down to the waterfalls. There are two sites here, the first is the easiest to reach and can provide a great opportunity to cool off in the fresh water amongst the lilies and fishes. The waterfall is not particularly tall but is refreshing to stand under and pretend as though you are in a Herbal Essence shampoo advert! If you are particularly adventurous you can follow the pathway to the second waterfall. This involves a hike (and a bit of a scramble) over some damp rocks at times and the pathway is very much at your own risk. Even when it has been dry for a while, you will still have to descend the wet rocks using the metal handlebars. If you have lots of swimming kit with you then staying at the first pool may be better.
It is almost impossible to visit the Peloponnese without giving a nod to its incredible history and you can barely go a mile without seeing a sign to one of the many archaeological sites. Great ancient cities such as Olympia and Sparta are found here, as well as impressive structures such as the Epidavros amphitheatre to the east, where the Athens and Epidaurus Festival takes place every year in the summer with live performances going on well into the night. Olympia is approximately two and a half hours north of Kalamata and, if you can catch the season right, you can visit without the crowds of cruise passengers. This is a fantastic day out, with much of the original site of the Ancient Olympic Games uncovered and being restored. Wander around the Museum of the History of the Ancient Olympic Games, where you can view the original athletes entry lists as well as some of the sports equipment such as discus and shields. Make sure to take lots of water with you, as there is no café as you walk around the archaeological site, and you will want to spend the most time here. Have your own 100m race inside the Olympic stadium, and then discover the athletes gymnasium as well as the VIP accommodation amongst the ruins. This site is still a part of the games today, with the Olympic torch lit there every four years, before it is carried across the world to its' host nation for the opening ceremony.
Travelling further east, you will find Nafplio, the original capital of modern Greece. The outskirts of Nafplio are a treat for the senses. As you drive, make sure to wind down the windows and you will smell the famous oranges as they grow in the many groves lining the roads. Don’t be afraid to take a small detour to explore the single track paths through the groves and find yourselves in the centre of it all. If you really want to unwind and experience the slow paced country life, there is nowhere better to stay than Opora Country Living (https://oporacountryliving.com/ , doubles from £67 per night, Sept 2020) . This boutique hotel has only six farmhouse rooms in its three hectare grounds, which have been in the same family for over 1000 years. A locally sourced breakfast is served in the garden beneath the master house, amongst the lavender bushes. Meander up into the grounds and hidden between row upon row of olive trees is the infinity pool, the perfect place to completely switch off and relax. The hotel also has a small vineyard and produces delicious jams and marmalades which you can bring back home with you to enjoy. There is no restaurant, but only a few minutes drive away is Liotrivi, in the little village of Pyrgiotika. Sit under the tree-strung fairy lights overlooking the hills as you eat food so local that the lady on the table next to us said the ice cream sandwiches were her daughter’s recipe!
Nafplio is only fifteen minutes away and known as ‘the most romantic destination in mainland Greece’. I can guarantee that you will certainly fall for its charms. The city reaches out into the bay at the foot of a large castle. There is a beautiful story that tells of the 999 steps up to the top (the one thousandth of which supposedly got knocked away by a horse belonging to a hero of the Greek revolution) but don’t be fooled if you start counting as there are only 856 in reality. Whatever you wish to believe, the view from the top is breath taking (…quite literally after the climb!) and you can always call a taxi down from the other side if you don’t want to walk down again. The old town is a maze of boutique souvenir shops and local craftsman, and there are many places to stop for an ice cream. By night, this town comes alive, often with live music spilling out of the small bars into the streets. Take your pick of one of the many restaurants offering fresh seafood along the waters edge, or go local at a small taverna in the centre, such as Lichnari. Either way, you will not feel disappointed.
Continue even further east and you will cross the famous Corinth canal, connecting the Ionian and Agean seas. This narrow canal is just over six kilometres long and only 21 metres wide, making it quite a unique sight if driving towards Athens, particularly if a large boat is making the crossing. This physical split in the country also forms the eastern edge of the region and the return to a quicker paced, industrial Greece. The Peloponnese is lucky to have these physical borders, the coast to the west and the canal to the east, keeping the serenity contained just for those who are in the know.
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