Transylvania, Romania
‘As far as the eye can reach is a sea of green tree tops, with occasionally a deep rift where there is a chasm. Here and there are silver threads where the rivers wind in deep gorges through the forests. The castle is a veritable prison, and I am a prisoner!’
Don’t panic. This is not a bad TripAdvisor review. Bram Stoker brought Transylvania’s castle region to the centre of people’s imagination in his famous novel, Dracula. An area with folklore deep in its roots, it has been long known as the ‘land beyond the forest’. With giant mountains, fairy tale castles and outstretched wildflower meadows it is easy to see how this area has become entwined with such myths and legends. Stories of vampires haunt the ruins of medieval fortresses and, although the story Dracula may not be true, it can be difficult to reassure yourself of this as you travel deeper into its captivating countryside.
Travel north from the capital, Bucharest, and it is not long before soviet city blocks break down into smaller farm houses. The well-laid main roads soon start to narrow and the motorways stop at railway crossings in the middle of nowhere. Trains become fewer and the roads become rougher, until horse drawn carts become the more common traffic. You will need to start the journey early as it is about a three hour drive. The public transport here is unreliable and there is a vast emptiness between any built up areas, so the roads can become clogged at rush hour as the only way in and out of the cities. I would highly recommend travelling as part of a tour with locals who know the roads and don’t mind a full day of driving (https://www.viator.com/tours/Bucharest/Day-Trip-To-Draculas-Castle-from-Bucharest/d22134-7745P1?m=49049&aid=stxbookingack&nid=VR.2c76419d-c79b-4f55-918d-ede1c3e31989.VT_EMAIL_TRV).
"With giant mountains, fairy tale castles and outstretched wildflower meadows it is easy to see how this area has become entwined with such myths and legends."
Transylvania is bordered by the Carpathian mountains, a range of harsh rock faces which curve alongside Eastern Europe and split Romania in half. In the winter, these mountains are softened with a thick layer of snow, making Romania a picturesque ski get away. Rural villages make up much of the infrastructure, it is not uncommon to see traditionally dressed women tend to chickens and men work by hand in their fields. Our very own Prince Charles is considered a local hero here, having contributed to the conservation of Romanian villages and restoring farmhouses into training centres for local craftsmen.
Before the soviet-era, Romania was a kingdom, ruled by a short succession of monarchs descending from Austria. Missing their mountain lifestyle in the Alps, they fell in love with the Carpathian landscape and built summer castles there for them to feel more at home. Peleș Castle, on the outskirts of Sinaia is one of the most famous and well worth visiting. As you enter the grounds, make sure to stop at the Café Regal (http://caferegalpeles.ro/index_en.html) for a warm drink and fresh pastry on the terrace. In the depths of winter, the red and gold framed castle sits boldly in the formal gardens, a striking contrast to the frosted grass and pale pine forests. If you close your eyes, you can even hear the trickle of the small stream in the background carrying meltwater down from the mountains.
Peleș Castle’s relatively recent construction means that this fairy-tale castle is modern inside, with a cinema, central heating and electricity. The landlord, King Carol I, was well travelled and had each room intricately decorated in the styles of a places that he visited; a Turkish salon, Indian music room and Swiss council to name just a few. Entering each room feels as though you are flicking through pages of a real life travel brochure and by the end of the visit you will feel as though you have visited so much more than just one building.
Continue your journey to the town of Bran, about an hour from Brasov. The small town is dominated by a bustling marketplace in the centre, with vast displays of bright woven slippers and sheepskin Căciulă (hats). On the other side of the market place you will uncover an English style garden, with two small ponds and a quaint tea room. Here is the entrance to the castle, perched on a rock high above the town with a steep ramp to the top. Inside, the castle is stripped bare, yet it feels welcoming, the rooms weaving in and out around a central courtyard. The rooms are filled with displays of its royal heritage, medieval customs and village life. The courtyard is peaceful (when not filled with tourists), with a wishing well and a few trees planted by the castle’s beloved owner, Queen Maria. It feels more secluded than Peleș Castle, a more homely place of residence for the royal family.
If you come here in search of vampire stories and mythical remains you will be disappointed. Bran Castle found fame after people thought that it was the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s famous novel, Dracula. Built upon a large rock face on the edge of the forest, the high walls and slender turrets do seem rather imposing at first glance, particularly in the uninviting cool palette of winter. Despite having no actual connection to the book or author, the castle seemed to fit the description so well that it was soon adopted by the bloodsucking vampire. A small room on the top floor is dedicated to Dracula but it is almost as if the castle wants to disassociate itself from the story that made it so famous. Some say the Count was based on Vlad the Impaler, a blood-thirsty Romanian ruler who skewered his enemies on long spikes, but this image is not entertained by the locals, who see Vlad as a great leader. It is only recently that the Romanian Tourist board have promoted the so-called “vampire tourism’ and hope to use European funding to help develop this.
After a day of castle hopping, make sure to end the evening in Brasov. This updated medieval town is fresh and modern, with a gastronomy scene that is growing quickly. It is easy to identify from afar, with a bright Hollywood-esque ‘BRASOV’ sign positioned on the hill above, which you can reach via cable car. Multicoloured pastel buildings surround a large main square where the Black Church takes centre stage. Named after the devastating fire in 1689 that destroyed the original building which left the inside walls black. For those who like a record breaker, Brasov is also home to the narrowest street in Europe, ‘Strada Sforii’ (The Rope Street). It is just over 110cm wide in parts, eighty metres long and was originally built as an access route for firefighters but it is now a staple on any tour of the city.
You only have to step back only a couple of streets from the square and the town becomes a place of quirky café hotspots and wine bars. When you start to feel peckish head to Trattorian Artisan Food (https://raiuvalentin.wixsite.com/trattorian/home) which serves up a menu of freshly made Mediterranean style cuisine using local ingredients. Although 1200 miles from the Med, you would never know it in this rustic restaurant that oozes the relaxed vibes of an Italian trattoria. Make sure to try the local wines too, Romania is one of the world’s largest wine producers and the rich flavours compliment the western cooking extremely well.
If visiting Transylvania as just a daytrip, the evening journey back to Bucharest can be a long one. The roads are not lit at night and they can often can become backlogged with people trying to get south. The forests become dark places and the mystery seeps through again as you wind your way through the mountain passes, making you start to doubt the logical explanations behind the impressive castles and stories. At least with lungs full of fresh air and a tummy full of deliciously garlicy pasta, you won’t be worried about encountering vampires anytime soon!
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