Gothenburg, Gothenburg Archipelago
2020 was a particularly exciting year for Gothenburg. While the world ground to a halt, this Swedish port received the European Capital of Smart Tourism Award, putting it firmly at the forefront of innovative, sustainable tourism. With so much to offer in Sweden’s second largest city, I can’t wait tell you what all the fuss is about!
Perched on the river Gota, on the west coast of Sweden, the city is a mix of old and new; calming natural parks and skyhigh modern development. Originally a fishing town, it is now a conurbation that is about so much more than just shellfish. Having said that, you can still source delicious same-day caught fish right in the centre of town. The spectacular feskekôrka (‘fish church’) is an indoor fish market which is said to have been architecturally inspired by Norwegian stave churches, with a white tiled roof looking almost like a layer of snow on top of the building.
One important part of Swedish culture you must discover is Fika, which literally means ‘taking a coffee break’, but this translation doesn’t do it justice. Fika is an attitude, a way of slowing life down and making time to socialise with friends. There is no place better to experience this for yourself than in Haga. This small area lies only a fifteen minute walk from the centre of town and is a small pedestrianised district full of pretty cobbled streets, independent shops and cosy cafes. Make sure to stop and try a Haga bun, a huge cinnamon pastry that got its name from the area. One of my favourite places to do this is Café Husaren, a laid back café and the perfect spot for people watching.
Keeping with the laid back theme, the Palm House at Tradgaardsforeningen is free to visit, and a peaceful sanctuary right in the middle of the city. It was originally designed around London’s Crystal Palace and contains a wide variety of tropical palms, exotic plants and photogenic blooms. The park itself is run by the Garden Society of Gothenburg and is considered one of the best conserved 19th century parks in Europe. There is a rose garden and cultural centre, as well as a quaint café, Rosenkaféet, at the park entrance. On the other hand, if you’re searching for some more up tempo retail therapy you will certainly find it at Nordstan, Scandinavia’s largest shopping centre. At least 180 shops fill this massive space, with some European classics alongside local retailers. There are often exhibition and events on here too, and around Christmas time there is a handicraft and design market.
For those who want some excitement, Gothenburg certainly delivers. For the young adventurers there is Universeum (https://www.universeum.se/en/), a whole world of different ecosystems under one roof. Start your visit at the top of the building and work your way down through exhibits of live animals, tropical fish and eventually enter a tropical paradise. Here you can walk amongst the butterflies, monkeys and other tropical creatures that live around a giant tree. There are areas based on science, space, dinosaurs, anatomy and all sorts. Not only will the kids be excited but they will most likely coming away having learned a great deal.
To entertain the big kids there is Liseberg theme park, right next door to the Universeum (https://www.liseberg.com). It hosts everything from the traditional big wheel to Valkyria, Europe’s Longest Dive Coaster. There are concerts and events as well as many other attractions and workshops throughout the year. I’m sure with all that excitement you will have worked up an appetite, but don’t worry, Holy Cow will sort that out (http://www.holycowburgers.se) ! The restaurant serves mouth-watering American style food, with legendary burgers that will make you drool! It is a cosy spot with few tables so make sure to book ahead of time and you certainly won’t regret it.
In need of some self-indulgence? Unwind at Upper House, sister to the Gothia Towers hotel and home to Upper House Spa. The spa here has won a collection of top awards, including the World Luxury Spa Award 2019. Once inside, slip into one of the three pools, or experience pure serenity in the experience shower. The saunas overlook the city with full length glass walls and Gothenburg’s highest hammam can be found in the facilities too. If that isn’t enough to persuade you, the prize feature of the spa is the glass bottomed outdoor ‘champagne pool’ (jacuzzi) that protrudes out 19 floors high, overlooking Liseberg and the streets below. Entry starts at SEK595, with reduced prices for hotel guests and spa packages available (see online at https://en.upperhouse.se/spa/upper-house-spa/) . Beware, the spa often gets booked out quickly as they limit the number of visitors, even to hotel guests! It is best to book a visit early in your stay so that you won’t miss out.
Although not in Gothenburg itself, the archipelago is a must-see and you cannot visit the city without a trip to at least one of the islands! There is a regular ferry network between the islands and the city, and many people commute daily from the archipelago for work. If you have enough time, visit a few of the islands over a couple of days.
Hönö is the largest in the archipelago and the perfect place to experience life on the northern islands, which are accessed via the Lilla Verholmen ferry terminal. There is so much to do once you set foot here, particularly for those who love the great outdoors. Hiking and bouldering are popular in Ersdalen, the nature reserve to the north west of Hönö, which provides world class routes and promises spectacular views. Klåvan is the main town and resembles a traditional style fishing village. Wooden Scandi huts are painted red and white along the seafront, with boutiques selling linen clothes and lace and another hosting the island’s Fish Museum. One of my favourite restaurants in Scandinavia is on this waterfront, Tullhuset Restaurang (https://www.tullhuset.se). The outdoor seating area here stretches out over the coastline, and the whole place has a charming, laid back feel. The food is exceptional, fresh fish and vegetables are served beautifully, and options for taster menus and special lunches throughout the year.
If you fancy exploring a few smaller islands, then try island hopping around the southern archipelago. These islands are much easier to access as you can board the ferry at Stenpiren port, in the city itself but this ferry only departs twice a day (in the morning and the evening). The ferry stops at Styrsö, Donsö and Vårangö, and a round trip takes around 1 hour 35 minutes, so if you have minimal time on your trip, you can still see a lot of the islands just by staying on the ferry. Alternatively, you can also board ferries from Saltholmen (reached by taking tram 11 for 35 minutes) which depart every hour to the same islands. Stop at Styrsö just before lunch, disembarking the ferry at Styrsö Skäret and walk north to Styrsö Bratten. This short walk only takes twenty minutes but it is beautiful along the coastline overlooking Donsö. The quay at Bratten is very small, but while you wait for the ferry make time for lunch and the opportunity to try another of Sweden’s gastronomic delights, smörgås (open sandwiches) at Café Öbergska (https://www.obergska.se). This rustic garden tea room is a hub, especially in the summer where you can sit outdoors in the beautiful ‘spice garden’.
No matter what you decide to get up to, you won't be left disappointed. Gothenburg is truly alive right now, this buzzing hub of energy is emerging into Europe’s limelight for good reason. It is a city of excitement, relaxation, fika and is certainly a breath of fresh air for the European tourist tail. It will just leave you with one question, “When can I return?".
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