Jerusalem, Israel and Bethlehem, Palestine
Whatever your belief, a journey to the Holy Land is eye opening. Jerusalem alone is the foundation for three of the world’s major religions, and Bethlehem is central to the most commonly celebrated holiday in the world, Christmas. This small area holds a lot of weight on its fractured shoulders, but it is a place of hope and faith.
Drive only an hour inland from Israel’s technological centre, Tel-Aviv, and you will arrive in one of the oldest cities in the world, Jerusalem. Despite the country’s relatively recent creation in 1948, settlements here date back to 3500 BC, and this city has been ruled by many different countries and empires in its long existence.
You can easily visit both Jerusalem and Bethlehem in a day from Tel Aviv without the need for an early start. It is possible to travel by public transport but the route is rather complex depending on where you start, so a private taxi may be preferable if you have the budget. If you want to travel as a private group, expect to hire a minibus (total!) and driver for approximately £300 for the day, it is not a cheap country and you will need a second transport for Bethlehem when you get there, as it is in Palestine. There are tours for similar daytrips often advertised in hotels, but doing it by yourself will give you the freedom to use your time effectively and allow you to make the most of these two cities.
The outskirts of Jerusalem may be modern, but the Old City is contained within its own walls, protecting its timeworn charm. As you arrive at Jaffa Gate, the westerly gate into the Old City, you get an immediate sense of the overwhelming history behind the crumbling city walls. There are no vehicles inside (apart from the odd motorcycle), so this is the best place to be dropped off. Head towards David Street, a secluded, inclined pathway at the corner of Armenian Patriarchate Street with market stalls spilling out onto the narrow steps. This street is the most famous tourist market in the Old City, so expect sellers to be keen. It is a whirlwind of colour and textiles but worth seeing to get a feel for the energy still buzzing within the city walls.
The Old City is split into four quarters: Christian, Jewish, Islamic and Armenian. The different religions live harmoniously within the city and the quarters are considered more as guidelines than boundaries. There is no formal barrier between them, just a street that may form a rough line across the city. With buildings from each religion scattered across all of Jerusalem, it can sometimes be difficult to know which quarter you are in. As a guide, the Christian and Muslim quarters are to the north, with the Armenian and Jewish quarters to the south.
David Street is the boundary between the Christian and the Armenian Quarters, the latter of which came about after Armenia converted to Christianity in 301 AD. Here is the oldest group of living Armenian population outside the country itself. Thousands of survivors were displaced after the Armenian Genocide, many of whom relocated to Jerusalem in the 20th Century. This small quarter has contributed much to the city over time, with the first co-educational school, photographic workshop and printing press in the city founded here.
At the end of David Street, turn right, into the Jewish Quarter. Wander through the cobbled streets and past the Hurva Synagogue, in front of which stands a bronze Menorah (the seven candle Hebrew lampstand). Keep heading east to where the Western wall is found. There are signs towards it and a steady flow of people in the direction of the wall so it should be easy to find while winding through the streets. This crumbling rock face is also known as the Wailing Wall, referring to the weeping of the Jews at this place after the destruction of their Temples inside Temple Mount. It is the world’s most religious site for Jewish people and is the western part of the wall of the Table Mount area. Table Mount was home to the first and second Holy Church, and where the Jews believe Abraham sacrificed his son to God. They feel that this wall is the closest they can get to the holy site, without accidently entering Table Mount, where the Holiest of Holies once stood. Instead they will go face to face with the wall to pray and leave notes in the fractures. Jews pray at the wall in separate male and female sections, but visitors may stand behind in a mixed-sex space to watch on. There were plans of a mixed sex area to worship in 2016, but these were quickly squashed by ultra-Orthodox parties and so the separation still exists.
Although those of Jewish faith will not pass into Temple Mount, access into this area for visitors can be found to the right of the wall via an old wooden bridge. Only Muslims may enter anytime, but at certain times of day non-Muslim visitors may look around too. The queue across the wooden bridge can be long, so allow enough time to make sure you can still visit in the allotted time slot. The authorities are very strict about the open times for non-Muslim visitors, it is only open for an hour or two when they do allow it, so make sure to ask the locals what time you are able to visit that day. Currently the opening times are Sunday-Thursday: 07:30-10:30 and 12:30-13:30 (winter) / 08:30-11:30 and 13:30-14:30 (summer). You will be required to be modestly dressed, with shoulders, wrists and ankles covered. Skirts are provided for men and women if your attire is not deemed suitable, however it is not a necessity to wear a headscarf.
Temple Mount itself is considered a highly religious place for Muslims. It is the oldest existing Islamic site, from which Muhammed is said to have ascended to the site of the seven heavens. There is a grand mosque in the centre, built over the sacred rock and hence, the mosque is known as the ‘Dome of the Rock’. Only Muslims may enter inside the dome but even the outside is well worth visiting as it is truly spectacular. The marble octagon is adorned with turquoise and gold tiles that stand out in the bright sunshine.
Once you have finished at the dome, exit to the east, through the Cotton Merchant’s Gate. You will come to a covered alleyway filled with colourful market stalls. Through this exit, you will have now entered the Muslim quarter. Despite the name, this quarter has a much greater association with its Christian roots. Find the Via Dolorosa, which is the street where Jesus carried his cross to his crucifixion on Good Friday. Start in the west of the Quarter, from Al Wadi Street and work your way east to follow the same route. There are often free walking tours advertised, such as the one with Sandemans, which is highly recommended (https://www.neweuropetours.eu/sandemans-tours/jerusalem/free-tour-of-jerusalem/) . This may be a great way to learn from someone who knows the route well if you have the time to do so. On the edge of buildings you will see roman numerals to mark each of the fourteen stations of the cross. If you choose to follow this route unguided, it is useful to download a guide to each of these stages as there is no information on the streets themselves about what these markings represent (here is one I found useful: https://www.verywellfit.com/walking-the-via-dolorosa-4020251). Some of the points will take you inside spectacular churches and buildings that could otherwise be missed, such as the crucifixion point, which is found inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The end of this walk will take you to Lions Gate, through which you can leave the city and walk toward the Mount of Olives.
Follow the streets back to the west again and you will find yourself in the Christian Quarter. This is a quarter full of pretty churches and small courtyards, with the streets more open than the other quarters. Like most of the city, this area is home to many market stalls selling gifts and souvenirs. Make sure to haggle, as the shopkeepers are used to tourists and will try and compete with each other. They speak English and Hebrew well, and will generally accept a variety of currencies, though it is well worth having Israeli shekels to hand.
Bethlehem is not a long journey from Jerusalem, only twenty minutes to drive to the border. You will have to cross into Palestine, so make sure you have your passport on you. The Israeli transportation may not be allowed to take you over the border, so you may need to change into a Palestinian taxi. It doesn’t take long to cross the border and it is fairly straightforward with just a passport check and a possible check of the taxi. Quite often Palestinians will be waiting for potential clients on the Israeli side and will offer transport and a tour of the Church of the Nativity together…normally via their brother’s / uncle’s nativity shop! Again, make sure to not overpay - work out what you are willing to give and haggle down to a sensible fee (we agreed on approximately £10 per head).
Palestine is segregated by the Separation Wall, a high concrete barricade surrounding the country, which has caused much controversy. On the Palestinian side, it has become long mural of politicised graffiti, mixed with colourful messages of peace and hope. The high streets are lined with fading shopfronts (my favourite being the “Stars and Bucks Café”) and small workshops filled with chunky olive wood nativity sets. Despite this, the people are so hospitable and welcome you into the country like a long lost sibling. Bethlehem itself is fragile, it is not uncommon to see a burned out bus, or building rubble strewn across the roads. There is a feeling of innocence in this complicated city, something you can only understand when stood on the streets themselves.
"There is a feeling of innocence in this complicated city, something you can only understand when stood on the streets themselves."
If you can get a guide for the Church of the Nativity it is well worth it, often this will come as a package with the transport (provided by another family member). It is the oldest complete church in the Christian world. The Church is open 06:30-19:00 in the summer, and 05:30-17:00 in the winter, so make sure to leave enough time from Jerusalem for your visit here. Inside, the queues can be long to get into the Grotto, the underground space said to be the location of the famous stable where Jesus was born. As you get close to the steps down into the Grotto, the queue becomes less formal, with many European pilgrims all trying to push into the narrow doorway. Amongst thick incense and fifteen coloured glass lanterns, the white marble room is dark and unbelievably quiet, despite the crowd. There is a small table, adored with bright blue and gold embroidered curtains, where you will find the exact spot Jesus is said to have been born. It is signified by a large, metal star on the ground. Pilgrims get down onto their knees to touch the star and pray. In the Grotto there is also an alcove with a small gold door, signifying the location of the manger.
Follow the one way system out of the grotto and through to the Church of Saint Catherine. It is bright and modern, a stark contrast to the old church that you will have just been in. This is where the nativity service is held every year on Christmas morning and is broadcast worldwide. You can view the nativity baby Jesus here all year around. Exit the church through the inner courtyard, a small, peaceful place, and past a statue of Saint George and the dragon.
On the way back, once you have reached the Israeli border, you will have to leave the Palestinian taxi before the wall and cross the Palestinian boarder by foot. They will check your passport (and visa strip) and you can then join your original transport in Israel once more. It is only one hour to drive back to Tel-Aviv.
Top Tips:
The streets in Jerusalem are narrow and it can be easy to lose your sense of direction as you wander through the maze of colourful shops. There is a charm to the narrow winding corridors, don’t be afraid to get lost, just embrace the spiny tributaries and explore. Before long you will find a church or courtyard and be able to get back on track again. You will almost certainly need an offline map as there is limited Wi-Fi and no mobile data here. Pick up a paper map from one of the local shops or take a photo of one of the central maps when inside. Alternatively use CityMaps2Go (https://apps.apple.com/us/app/citymaps2go-pro-offline-maps/id327783342), where you can mark the main attractions to visit as well as working out where you are, great for making a plan before you arrive.
Although you must be completely covered when entering Table Mount (ankles and wrists covered), it is not necessary to wear a headscarf. While exploring the rest of this area though, you may be slightly more relaxed. Still dress respectfully and appropriately; shorts are frowned upon for women, so preferably opt for a long skirt or trousers and avoid showing your shoulders or chest. Men, make sure to wear an appropriate top that covers your shoulders (i.e. not a sports vest) and trousers. There are many religious sites and some may not let you in unless you are dressed suitably.
Make sure to take lots of water and some snacks. Although there are places to stop in the city, it can get very hot and it is worth making sure you have lots to drink. If you fancy a beer at the end in Bethlehem, why not try something local, such as Taybeh Beer, which you can pick up in the local corner shops!
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