Funchal, Madeira
For those who have never visited Madeira before, imagine stepping out of a monochrome world and seeing colour for the first time. The blue waters are dazzling, green mountains are vivid, the flora is a speckled palette of every colour imaginable…and don’t even get me started on those sunrises.
Situated nearer to the Moroccan coastline than its Portuguese owners, the island has an ability to awaken your senses like never before. Its energy is contagious; rocky shores are constantly fighting the rough ocean while orographic swirls of clouds whip up like candy floss over the mountains.
Although only a small island, Madeira’s mountains create a microclimate that cause huge weather variations across the land throughout the day. This makes organising your day very important. Before you plan any activities, make sure to check out the webcams across the island at: https://www.madeira-web.com/en/webcams/funchal-marina-livecam.html. Generally the weather is clearer and calmer in the mornings, before the heat increases and clouds bubble up. The east of the island is often cloudier than the west in the afternoons, so it is worth setting up an itinerary with this in mind.
Transport
Getting around Madeira by car is mostly straightforward. It takes less than an hour to drive between the north and south coasts. The island is connected by a network of extremely well maintained tunnels cut into of the rock, but off the main motorways the roads become a little trickier. Winding mountain passes boast some of the best views on the island, but require much more concentration as they are often unlit at night. In the cities, the roads can be inclined as much as twelve degrees so make sure to be comfortable with your hill starts! These roads are recommended only for experienced drivers used to steep terrain. A much easier way to travel about if you don’t have a car is Bolt. This app works similar to Uber (which is not allowed on Madeira) and can provide cheap transport around the cities.
Where to stay
Quinta Jardins Do Lago (http://www.jardinsdolago.com/en/ ) has to be one of the most exquisitely photogenic hotels on the island. This old manor house in Funchal once belonged to the Blandy family, well known for their wine making in Madeira. The gardens flourish with explosions of colourful flora and are home to a variety of fauna, including lizards, birds and Colombo, the resident giant tortoise! The standout feature of the hotel though are the staff themselves. Don’t miss out on breakfast, fresh local produce served à la carte in the gardens, which sets you up for the day in the most perfect of ways.
What to do: Funchal
Funchal, the capital, is a sprawling urban city that clings tightly to the steep landscape. At the eastern edge of harbour is the packed old town. A few rows of busy narrow streets parallel each other, stretching out along the coastline. Bars and restaurants spill out between them, forming a concoction of colourful chairs and a cocktail of smells. Rua de Santa Maria, one of these streets, is home to the artsy Funchal Painted Doors Project. Each of the 200 doors are painted with colourful murals, to inject some energy into the area. The project has worked too; since it started many new restaurants have opened, as well as shops and art galleries bringing the area back to life. My favourite door was this beautiful mermaid on an underwater swing. Who knew a door could be such a work of art! While down by the harbour, make sure to check out the 3D art project on Rue do Surdo (https://3dfunart.com/) . This immersive art gallery-come-museum is a collection of illusion props and backdrops set up to play with your imagination. You’ll be able to fool your friends with holiday snaps of you taming a ferocious dinosaur, parachuting, or even walking upside-down!
Wandering through the city centre, you won’t be able to stop your eyes drifting skyward. Right overhead lie two impressive cable cars, one connecting Funchal to the upper district of Monte, and the other further out, connecting Monte to Babosas. A one way ticket on the Funchal-Monte cable car costs €24 (€31.40 round trip), and the journey takes fifteen minutes. You board the cable car by the waterfront, just a few minutes walk from the colourful Funchal Market. At the top, you will be placed right at the entrance of the Monte Palace Gardens (https://montepalace.com/desktop/) . This explosion of flora will entice your senses out of a city and into a paradise jungle. There are many different sections to the gardens, with Chinese inspired waterways, indigenous plantation areas and an array of impressive waterfalls at the centre. Explore hidden tunnels behind the waterfalls and cross stone bridges over fish inhabited ponds. There is also free Madeiran wine tasting in the café with every ticket, which is an excuse in itself to visit!
You can get the cable car or a taxi back down to the waterfront, but there is a far more exciting way back down if you fancy it. The Monte toboggans have been running downhill between Nossa Senhora Do Monte Church and Livramento since the early 19th century. Long gone are the days of slippery, uneven cobbles to endure and this experience is completely safe and truly exhilarating. You can buy tickets at the toboggan starting point, just a couple of minutes walk uphill from the Monte Palace Gardens exit. The ride costs €15 per person but €25 if only one person in the basket. The sturdy toboggans are made of wicker and driven by two highly skilled carreiros (drivers) in traditional uniforms and straw hats. The ten minute (2km) journey is smooth and suitable for anyone, don’t worry you definitely don’t have to be an adrenaline junkie! From Livramento, you will have to get a taxi or walk down the rest of the steep hill, approximately 20-30 mins. Beware, the taxis are fully aware of this tourist trap and will try to charge premium rates to take you down. If you do not decide to walk, you can always book a Bolt car to just around the corner for less than half the price.
One of the top things to do on the island is afternoon tea at Reid’s Palace Hotel. The hotel exudes timeless elegance, and has one of the best views in Funchal as the backdrop to the salmon pink rooftop terrace. Highly in demand, it is well worth booking weeks in advance for your spot at this famous restaurant. An endless spread of decedent cakes, juicy fruit scones and delicate sandwiches will delight food fan, alongside an impressive tea menu. Tables are available on Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday between 3pm and 4:30pm and can be booked at: https://www.belmond.com/hotels/europe/portugal/madeira/belmond-reids-palace/dining#top .
What to do: Around the Island
Madeira’s coastlines are sculpted by the wild Atlantic waters that surround it. There are a few small, sandy beaches but the majority of the shore is made from impressive rocky cliffs. That doesn’t mean there isn't anywhere to enjoy the warm waters though. Most visitors flock to Porto Moniz, in the north-west of the island. The volcanic lava that created Madeira cooled here and formed natural pools, which have creates a large safe swimming area, with relaxation areas, rock jumping boards and even a cafe (along with changing areas). Entry costs €1.50 and lockers are an additional €3. The town itself is full of restaurants, play areas and an aquarium, so there is lots here to keep the family entertained.
The road trip to Porto Moniz is worth a trip in itself though, even if you don’t fancy a dip. From Funchal, follow the VR1 towards Riberia Brava. From here turn north on the VE4 you will climb deep into the luscious mountains. There are many places to pull over and appreciate the mountainous view, and it is well worth doing this. At Serra De Agua, if you are an experienced driver, you can make the most of joining the ER228 (which joins the VE4 back up at Vargem) for the best views to the ocean. Powder blue agapanthus explode alongside the roads across Madeira, and summer is the best time to spot these particularly on this route. Returning to Funchal via the ER110 takes you along the top of the mountain ridge and through the national park, home to wild cattle and sometimes even above the clouds.
If you fancy a beach trip, follow the south coast to Calheta. There are two small sandy beaches here, as well as a large promenade for sunbathing. The marina here is the best spot if you wish to go on a dolphin watching or scuba diving excursion. Once back on land, head for Manifattura Di Gelato. This ice cream house has a delicious Italian menu, using fresh seafood and an abundance of flavour, plus a delicious gelato for dessert. While heading out this way, make a stop at Cabo Girāo. This is the highest Cape in Europe and famous for its glass ‘skywalk’ floor, suspended 580m above the ground. There are spectacular panoramic views over the ocean and it has become popular for paragliders and parachutists. Entry is free, and there is a gift shop and café on site for a refreshment afterwards.
Madeira’s north-east has a different vibe to the rest of the island. Heavily focused on its culture and heritage, a visit is an excellent way to learn more about the people and lifestyle. Santana is a small town where you can find some of the traditional style Madeiran houses. These thatched wooden triangles were the traditional style of architecture. Some of the buildings here have been converted into handicraft, flower and Madeiran wine shops. The area is free to visit but tourists are encouraged to donate towards the upkeep. Pair this visit with lunch or dinner at the Quinta do Furāo, making sure to try the delicious black scabbard fish, a specialty on the island. Located at the edge of a dramatic cliff edge, this hotel and restaurant has a panoramic view of the ocean. The hotel has its own vineyard on site, which you can explore, as well as a similar traditional thatched house.
Have you ever watched sunrise from the top of a volcano? If not then it should be added to the bucket list for sure. Pico do Arieiro is only a 35 minute drive from Funchal and boasts arguably the best morning sky across the island. Visitors gather from very early to watch the spectacle, and it is well worth arriving an hour or so before sunrise to make the most of the colours (and get a decent parking spot on the road!). It can be chilly at the top, so make sure to bring multiple layers to keep you warm until the sun comes up. After sunrise, there are some fantastic hikes starting here, including the PR1, which follows the ridge of the peaks from the Pico do Arieiro.
A levada walk is one of the best ways to immerse yourself amongst the lush nature on the island. These narrow water channels form an integral water supply through the mountains. The PR11 levada walk ‘Vereda dos Balcões’, follows the Serra do Faial levada. It is a fantastic short trail encapsulating the best of the natural environment. The walk is approximately 30minutes each way to Balcões, an outdoor balcony that frames an impressive vista. Ideal for nature lovers, bird watchers or those just wanted to stretch their legs, this walk will not disappoint. Road parking can be found at Ribeiro Frio, from where you can join the well-signposted footpath. There are some small cafes along the path and so when you retrace your steps back to Riberio Frio, why not stop for some refreshments.
Whatever you get up to in Madeira, you will certainly be reconnected to the natural world. Whether you spend your time exploring the many hiking routes and levada walks, or just appreciating the view from Reid’s afternoon tea, you cannot help but feel refreshed. The perfect getaway that can be for a quick weekend break, or leisurely long stay - this island truly has it all.
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