Discovering Santorini: The Celebrity of the Cyclades.

Santorini.

Santorini, undoubtably the celebrity of the Cyclades, is the island that continues to charm people to its volcanic shorelines time and time again. The allure of white cave houses, turquoise plunge pools and unparalleled candy-coloured sunsets has helped it become an icon in the world of romantic travel. With this in mind, Santorini has become a hugely sought after destination, attracting over two million visitors every year. I hope to show you how to make the most of your time there while avoiding the crowds.

The allure of white cave houses, turquoise plunge pools and unparalleled candy-coloured sunsets has helped it become an icon in the world of romantic travel.

The island is not known for its beaches, which are dark rocky affairs and a stark contrast to the golden stretches of Paros or Naxos. Yet Santorini’s beaches have their own unique appeal and Kamari’s offers so much more than just a stretch of black rock. Stay at the Makris Beach Hotel (https://www.makrishotel.gr ), a boho infused hotel which opens out right onto the promenade. The town has a relaxed beach vibe with shops selling everything from fun souvenirs to beautiful handicrafts, and beachside cocktail bars which open late into the night. This is the laid back, family-focused part of Santorini, and is a whirlwind away from the more pretentious west coast. One evening make sure to visit the Kamari Open Air Cinema (https://santorinicinema.com ). Films start at 8pm and are set in a small courtyard a short walk to the west of town. The cinema shows classic films as well as new releases, which you can watch under the stars. There is a refreshments bar serving a full selection of drinks and snacks, so why not enjoy a bottle of local wine while relaxing. Make sure to get there early, as the queue gets long quickly and the seating is a free for all.

Overlooking Kamari is the ancient city of Thera. Perched high on the top of the Messa Vouno mountain, this city was once home to the great civilisations of Dorians and later the Ptolemaic army. It’s location means that there are some of the best views over the east of the island, with a panoramic view over the Aegean sea. You can easily make out the white towns of Kamari and Fira in the distance, but one of the most fun sights is Santorini’s airport, and you get a great view of the aircraft landing! Buses to the top of the Messa Vouno run hourly from Kamari centre and it is definitely worth spending a half day there. There are signs along the walking trail to show pictures of how the original settlement looked and explain each of the building’s uses. Some of the ruins are particularly well preserved, with intricate carvings still showing in the rocks.

The soils of Santorini are as rich as its culture. Wine has been produced here for over three thousand years as well as fresh fruits, cheese and (surprisingly) beer. Over time, the locals have made the island self-sustainable, and despite the challenges faced by the high levels of tourists, this is one part of the culture that the locals are still proud of. For the perfect introduction to locally sources ingredients head to Mesogaia Delicatessan in Kamari (https://www.facebook.com/MesogaiaDelicatessen/ ). This deli runs alongside the beachside fine dining restaurant and wine bar, and so should not be dismissed as merely a local food store. The meze served in the restaurant is some of the best you can find on the island and the wines are truly exceptional. The waiters have an outstanding knowledge of the grapes and explain each of the dishes and glasses as if they prepared it themselves.

Transport across Santorini can sometimes be difficult. The bus network is the most economical way to explore, but it is not always reliable; the drivers will often miss out smaller stops if they have already filled up. If you decide to stay outside one of the towns you are likely to have to use a taxi at some point due to this. These are a far more expensive alternative, but can be useful if you are looking to stay in just one area or make minimal journeys. For those wanting their own set of wheels, a car or even a quad bike may be suitable if exploring the island over a few days, but be aware that there are few car parks in the main towns and most people park on the streets on the outskirts.

Fira (Thira), the capital, is a maze of winding cobbled alleys lined with leather workshops and souvenir merchants. There is a buzz of excitement here and the town is normally saturated with visitors, many coming to the island from cruises or ferries through the main port at Fira, located at the bottom of the city cliffs. It is a fun walk to the bottom of the port, although you will have to navigate the six hundred winding steps and their resident donkeys. The colourfully dressed animals are used to transport visitors to and from the port, but if you do struggle with the steps, then the cable car is a much kinder option to travel between the two. The cable car also has fantastic views over the caldera, which means you won’t have to catch your breath every time you want to take a photo!

Locals will have you believe that Santorini was once the home of the legendary city of Atlantis and, after the ruinous eruption of Thera volcano, Aegean waters submerged the area and the city was lost forever. Why not delve straight into the story yourself and try to answer some of the unsolved questions on a trip to the centre of Thera’s caldera (https://www.santorini-sea-excursions.com/index.php/volcano-hot-springs-tour )? Step aboard one of the traditional wooden karavoskaro boats at Fira port and set sail for the island of Nea Kameni. Thera still lies dormant beneath the charred landscape of Nea Kameni, an uninhabited island at the centre of the caldera, which is well worth seeing to understand more about the formation of the islands. After a workout for the mind, treat your body to a dip in the island’s hot springs, that are said to detoxify the body and promote healthy skin. The springs are a short swim from the mooring point of the boats and many of them will provide floats for those who need assistance. Be aware though, the water here is rich with sulphur and so may discolour pale swimming kit, so try to avoid wearing your favourites for this daytrip!

It would be impossible to write about Santorini without talking about its crown jewel, Oia. Whereas Fira has prominence, Oia has magic. The narrow streets here flow west, towards the sunset point, frequently opening out onto squares with blue domed churches. Colourful bunting and bright pink bougainvillea are laced overhead and cave like craft shops appear deep into the street walls. However its beauty hasn’t gone unnoticed, making the town incredibly popular for visitors, particularly around sunset. Most restaurants are reserved days in advance for sunset, so make sure to book early if you want to experience dinner with a view. The rooftop at Pelekanos (http://www.pelekanosrestaurant.gr ) has a full panorama of the town and is the perfect way to watch the sun go down. If you want to stay in Oia, most of the accommodation is made up from white cave houses terraced on the cliff edge. They are truly stunning, but if you wish to stay somewhere without breaking the bank or even just want a little more privacy, try Finikia Memories (https://www.finikiamemories.com ). This hotel is only a few minutes walk from Oia, but it is far enough out that you feel secluded in your own private paradise.

If you are the outdoorsy type or simply want to make the most of the fresh air, one of the best things to do is walking on the island. The hike from Oia to Fira takes approximately three hours, and is eleven kilometres along the spectacular coastline. It is definitely one of the best ways to see the island, with stunning views across the expansive horizon as well as meandering through picturesque clifftop villages. You do not have to be super fit, but just have a decent pair of trainers and lots of water! Many people do this as a leisurely day out, stopping at cafes along route for lunch and photographing the scenery. The path starts just outside Oia, it is fairly well signposted and there will be many other people following the same route, so it is easy to find your way.