Hamburg, Germany.
‘Work hard, play hard’; four words that encapsulate Hamburg’s energetic spirit. Connected to the North Sea via the Elbe river, this gateway to Germany has historically been dominated by industry and shipping. Without the Bavarian charm of Munich, or the hipster vibes of Berlin, the city has had to put effort into forming its individual character. Nowadays, it manages to balance its important industrial duty with a flourishing social scene.
The inland north of the city surrounds the dynamic Outer Alster lake. It is a popular spot for water sports, so the best way to explore is by jumping into a canoe or sailing boat and heading out on the water. You can rent boats from multiple clubs on the lake, details of which can be found at https://www.hamburg.com/boating/14055536/on-the-alster-lake/. However, if you’d much rather let someone else do the hard work, you can put your feet up and join a tour on the Germany’s oldest steam boat, boarded from Jungfernstieg wharf. Take in the fresh air on land instead, with a wander along the beautiful towpath, stopping at Alster Park and exploring Hamburg’s impressive real estate to the north of the lake. For dinner on the water, you must try Kajüte. Located next to the boat clubs, this floating restaurant specialises in fresh seafood. An after-dinner cocktail can be found at The Heritage bar, located on Le Meridien’s top floor. Boasting impressive views over the natural lake, it can be easy to forget you are still in a busy city up here.
Wandering only a few minutes south towards the centre of Hamburg, you will come across the Jungfernstieg waterfront. Once this grand boulevard, on the edge of the Inner Alster lake, was the location for young debutantes promenading while looking for a suitable husband. Whilst these days you won’t find fair maidens there searching for a spouse (they are probably heading to the bars in Altona instead), you certainly get a feeling of romance within the Venetian architecture which playfully reflects in the Alster’s waters at dusk. The waterfront is now filled with boojie designer shops and smart waterfront restaurants and is certainly the place to be seen.
Between the busy city centre and the Hamburg convention centres are a large range of charming manicured gardens. Planten un Blomen (https://plantenunblomen.hamburg.de/) certainly lives up to its name ‘plants and flowers’, and embraces a wonderful mix of exotic themed gardens, pristine lawns and relaxing picnic areas. The Heinrich Hertz Tower towers directly above the gardens, rising 280m above western Hamburg. Every summer night, the park hosts a magnificent water and light concert within the grounds, which is well worth visiting. In the winter, the gardens come alive with the sounds of children whizzing about on the spectacular ice skating rink.
The city centre is quick paced, open-hearted and full of energy. Either side of the pedestrianised Spitalerstrasse, restaurants tumble out into the sunshine, wafting the smell of fresh food into the air. Between them are dotted a mix of bold, independent retailers and your continental high street favourites. Spitalerstrasse is also home to exciting seasonally changing events, including Spring festival, Oktoberfest and Christmas markets, making it a perfect place to visit any time of year.
If you ever feel lost in the city, look into the sky and you will almost certainly find the distinctive copper roof of the Rathaus. As you get closer to the city centre, the impressive façade of this City Hall becomes visible at the end of the Rathausmarkt square. There are often hands-on activities happening here and in the winter it becomes a spectacular backdrop for the Christmas market. Within the building itself lies Hamburg’s seat of government, and the cities parliament. You can take a fascinating 40-minute tour of the building from a 19thcentury mayor dressed guide. One highlight is the baroque ballroom where the oldest banquet in the world, Matthiae-Mahl, takes place every year.
To the south of the City Hall lies Hafen City, a gentrified urban neighbourhood best explored on two wheels. Once you have picked up a bicycle from one of the many hop-on stations in the city, a grid of peaceful canals and repurposed red-brick warehouses awaits. Woven together by bridges and cobbled streets, many of the warehouses now house artisan coffee shops (such as Kaffeerösterei Torrefaktum), museums and private apartments. You can find the International Maritime museum here, which comes complete with a ship signal station, a copy of the first nautical atlas, and a new ship simulator, where you can have a go at being captain!
Dominating the ambitious Hafen City silhouette is the Elbphilharmonie concert hall (https://www.elbphilharmonie.de/en/), mimicking the waters waves and hoisted sails which have passed by over centuries. The hall is renowned for its acoustics; no one in the vineyard-inspired Grand Hall is ever more than thirty meters from the source of the music. Performances run all year in a wide variety of musical genres, so there is something for everyone on the programme! After an evening of entertainment, why not stay (very!) locally at The Westin hotel, situated directly underneath this architectural masterpiece. The rooms offer fantastic views of the river and there is also a tranquil spa and wellness area to relax after busy days. If you don’t have enough time for a performance, then still make sure to visit the Plaza viewing platform, looking out over the hard-working harbour.
Quite literally in world(s) of its own, Minitur Wunderland (https://www.miniatur-wunderland.com) is unmissable on any Hamburg visit. This is the largest model railway in the world, attracting 16 million visitors a year, and is perfect for small children and big kids alike! There are currently 12 different real-world environments, from the American wild west, Italian coastline and Scandinavian cold with over one thousand trains running between them. There is even a large Hamburg airport, with 42 moving aircraft which arrive and depart through the clouds. In 2020, the attraction had the go-ahead to expand its site across the canal via a new glass bridge, with the prospect of starting its latest world, South America very soon. Make sure to visit first thing in the morning, before the large crowds arrive. Tickets cost €20 for adults, €12.50 for children and there is an on-site gift shop and café.
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