Burton-on-the-Water, Upper and Lower Slaughter, Stow-on-the-Wold
Nestled amongst 800 square miles of green rolling hills lies a network of small English villages that make up the Cotswolds. Honey-coloured stone houses contour cobbled pathways, while gurgling brooks and melodic birdsong create the background tune. The area is slow-paced and everything is locally sourced. You’ll be far more at home wearing wellington boots then stilettos here.
Burton-on-the-Water is dubbed the ‘Venice of the Cotswolds’ thanks to its system of bridges crossing the shin-deep River Windrush. The best time to visit the town is the early morning, before the crowds arrive. For breakfast head to the family-run Bakery on the Water (http://www.bakeryonthewater.co.uk). Imagine freshly baked croissants, perfectly cooked morning eggs and even the option to have a picnic prepared for your daily adventures in the countryside. The morning air is filled with the welcoming smell of fresh bread and you won’t be able to keep away.
Further along the river you’ll find a range of independent craft shops, including Cotswold Candlemakers. This pretty candle makers and gift shop is filled with a gorgeous collection of trinkets. You can view the candlemakers at work and purchase from a huge range of aromatic wax works. While in Burton, make sure to explore the model village, a small 1930s replica of the town itself, complete with its own miniature model village. The village is run as part of the Old New Inn, (https://theoldnewinn.co.uk, doubles from £99) which offers eight calming nature themed bedrooms and delicious fresh breakfast . The Cotswold Motoring Museum (https://www.cotswoldmotoringmuseum.co.uk ) is also worth a visit, with fascinating displays of classic vehicles, vintage toys and even the original 1990s childhood favourite car, Brum. There’s a blacksmith’s workshop to take you to a time of transition from horseback to motoring, and Jack Lake’s Garage, a pioneer mechanic in the area.
Transport around the Cotswolds can be challenging. Car is the obvious method to explore, but be aware that there can be limited parking in the villages, particularly during the day, when the crowds arrive. The larger towns do have dedicated car parks but being aware of tourist coaches that also use this parking when bringing people for the day. There is public transport linking the villages, for more information please see: http://www.cotswoldsaonb.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/explore-booklet-final-web5.pdf . The most fun way to explore the region is by donning some hiking boots and taking to the many trails that run between villages.
If you fancy trying somewhere unique for lunch, head to the Old Prison, just outside Northleach (https://www.theoldprison.co.uk). Once this prison was considered a model place to provide better care and rehabilitation to prisoners. But those days are long gone and the building has now been converted into a bright kitchen and café serving artisan coffees, fresh brunch options and delicious afternoon teas. There is a large enclosed garden at the back, with barns of rural machinery to visit and with a £3 donation, you can visit the cells themselves.
Only a short journey away from Bourton lie Upper and Lower Slaughter. Overlook the rather ominous sounding names; ‘slaughter’ actually comes from the Old English term meaning ‘muddy place’. These are two of the most picturesque villages of the region, connected by the River Eye. There is something special about the tiny village of Upper Slaughter. With very little going on (there is barely even a shop here), you may wonder why you have stopped. But, amongst this little residential paradise, there is one hidden gem, Lords of the Manor (https://www.lordsofthemanor.com , doubles from £297 per night). This manor house, with its flower arch entrance and lavender lined driveway is the prettiest hotel you will have seen. Even if you decide not to stay here, it is a perfect place to spend an afternoon with a Pimm’s in the courtyard, or enjoy afternoon tea on the front lawn.
Lower Slaughter, by contrast, is a lively place with a great social scene. In 2011, Copse Hill Road was voted the most romantic street in Britain and the village has often been used as a film set thanks to its photogenic setting. The Slaughters Country Inn https://www.theslaughtersinn.co.uk/ , doubles from £162 per night) has the prime spot in the village, with the river forming a moat around its grassy pub garden. In the summer the inn becomes a real hub, buzzing with people enjoying the sunshine. Further along the river Eye you will find The Old Mill hidden in between the houses, dipping into the water. It was first used commercially in 1086, but now houses a quaint tea room and museum (http://oldmill-lowerslaughter.com/riverside-tea-room.html#.YGrZni1Q3ow ). There is limited parking in both of the Slaughters, but with some great walking routes from Bouton, why not explore a bit more of the countryside and walk there!
Stow-on-the-Wold is a popular market town set on the steep Stow Hill, a ten minute drive to the east of the Slaughters. It’s high street is filled with art galleries and craft centres, making it the perfect place for picking up local produce and gifts from your trip. Make sure to try the Cotswold Cheese Co. (https://www.cotswoldcheese.com) for a range of delicious artisan cheeses, some sticky fig relish and local ale. The market square is a culmination of independent outlets and high street favourites, including Cotswolds and Fat Face, so it is a great place to pick any last minute items for exploring the outdoors. If you are looking for gifts for yourself, try Sam Wilson Studio (https://samwilsonstudio.com/), a beautiful British homeware shop inspired by the countryside, through traditional printing and craftsmanship. In the centre of the grassy square are the historic village stocks, dating back to medieval times. Take time to stop here and enjoy some fudge from Roly’s Fudge ( https://rolysfudge.co.uk/stores/rolys-fudge-stow-on-the-wold/) on one of the park benches before wandering back.
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