Tirana, Albania
Tirana may be one of the lesser known European capital cities, however it’s under-the-radar status is starting to pull people towards its vibrant heart. Just 48 hours here will open your eyes to an energetic metropolis that is preparing to burst on to the European tourist scene.
Albania has had a tough, isolated past. Only recently has it awoken from decades of communist slumber, so its infrastructure has certainly got a lot of catching up to do. Tirana’s radical makeover is happening everywhere; all across the city you will see evidence of architectural facelifts. The vibe is artsy, sprawling murals stretch across previously plain brick walls and new curvaceous towers rise from the ashes of old communist concrete blocks. Its young inhabitants are now piling into the city in search of the bright lights and heading towards the brightly coloured skyscrapers popping up across the skyline.
The Albanian Lek is a closed currency, meaning you can only convert it within the country itself. Having said that, many vendors and taxis do accept Euros and most places accept card payments too. The taxi from Tirana Airport costs €20 each way and is a standard rate, so you don’t have to worry about converting money before you leave the airport. The main highway to and from the airport is well maintained, however it is worth noting that outside the capital the roads are far less developed and it is best to allow many more hours than expected to make day-trips.
On arrival in Tirana, check in to the Hotel Boutique Restaurant Gloria (http://www.hotelboutiquegloria.al) . Located a few minutes walk from Skanderbeg Square and overlooking the vibrant New Bazaar, this cosy hotel will put you in a top spot for exploring the city. Breakfasts here are an artistic creation that taste even more delicious than they look.. Expect fresh breads, juices, eggs and a platter of local delicacies served in the top floor panoramic restaurant.
In the centre of town is the magnificent Skanderbeg Square, surrounded by impressive buildings. The National Theatre stands at one end, with its monumental pillars welcoming you to its theatre, cafes and information centre. Next to it you will find the 35m high Clock Tower, the symbol of the municipal of Tirana, which you can climb for just 200LEK. At the northern end of the square is the Albanian National Museum, adorned with a huge 400m2 mosaic called ‘The Albanians’. It depicts the long struggle of the Albanian people fighting off invasion and occupancy over the centuries and is well worth visiting. Skanderbeg Square is animated throughout the year, whether it is filled with music fans at the summer Coca Cola rock festival, or festive feeling families at the city’s large Christmas market in the winter.
In order to fully appreciate the city, you need to get beneath Tirana’s modern façade…literally! Delve underground into Albania’s dark past through a series of rediscovered nuclear bunkers, known as Bunkart. There are two of these installations, the first on the outskirts of the city, and the second just off Skandenberg Square. If you have time to visit BunkArt 1, 13 minutes drive from the city centre, link this with a visit up the Dajti Express cable car (https://dajtiekspres.com/rates-and-opening-hours/ ) from which you can get spectacular vistas of Albania from the top. BunkArt 2 is the newer of the two galleries, and can be accessed behind the Public Order Ministry. It focuses on the Albanian police cruelty in the late 20th century and inside you will follow a number of harrowing displays of the spying, brutality and murder under the fascist and communist ruling. At the end, step foot inside an old, unused radiation shower and peer into the real cells of innocent people. Tickets cost 600LEK per person.
After a sobering start to the trip, you will definitely want a boost of positive energy. From exploring beneath the city, now take a trip to the top of the city at the Toptami Shopping Centre. This modern shopping centre is filled with six floors of Albanian and European high street shops, as well as desert bars, restaurants and a jungle themed children’s area. Grab a coffee at Gess Bar, on the top floor, with one of the best viewpoints of the city.
At the base of the shopping centre is Tirana Castle. Most of the castle is now historic ruins, but some of the the Kalaja e Tiranes has been redeveloped into a chic social scene. Independent shops, galleries, bars and restaurants fill the gaps between the old Byzantine walls, modernised with sleek wooden slats and retrofit architecture. Lunariaa.eu is an Instagrammers paradise café, filled with dried flowers and pink walled neon backdrops. Make sure to try the beautiful flower teas. Alternatively, visit the wild west themed sweet shop opposite and treat your inner child while gorging on barrels of sugary treats. If you’re looking for evening entertainment you won’t be disappointed here, with a range of local and international restaurants, steak houses and lively bars to fill your night.
I am a true believer that the best way to experience a culture is through its food. Fifty percent of employment in Albania is agriculture, and the locals pride themselves in their homemade recipes and fresh produce. The New Bazaar, to the east of Skanderbeg Square is a modern, glass covered building, always filled with a flurry of activity. Visiting in the morning, you can find everything here from fruit and vegetables, retro electronics and small souvenirs. Surrounding the market is a patchwork of bright patterned buildings, with shops, restaurants and apartments. It feel like the local hub of Tirana, and is where you can see true local life.
‘Go as Local’ (https://goaslocal.com/tour-destination/albania/) run a fantastic cookery course only a ten minute walk north of the New Bazaar. The cookery school has a warm, homely feel, covered with photos of fascinating people and events. Here you can learn to make four courses of traditional plates, while sharing stories and learning more about Albanian culture. Albanian food is a saturated with delicious fresh vegetables and meats, with flavoursome cheeses and pastry to top it off. Spinach pie is a common dish eaten at celebrations such as Independence Day, and you will certainly not come away hungry. Make sure you leave room for desert though, as you try different types of local handmade wine and raki, both warm and cold, with mouth-watering syrup cookies.
The Grand Park of Tirana is a beath of fresh air on the edge of the concrete conurbation. A morning walk around the lake takes approximately an hour and a half, following the lakeside pathway. The tree covered Dajti mountains provide a magnificent backdrop to Tirana, their rocky faces can be seen best at the southern end of the lake. The lake is popular with local runners and those walking with friends, who often want to chat and welcome you to their city.
Albanian nightlife should not be missed. With such a young population in Tirana, there are many places to have a fun night out. The Blloku district, a ten minute walk south from Skanderbeg Square is the buzzing area to party with the locals. Rruga Pjetër Bogdani is a street lined with trendy bars and there is something to suit everyone’s taste. For sports fans, head to Charl’s Bistro, a quirky sports bar decorated with fun, interactive art. Further along the road, The Colonial Cocktails Academy has an oriental influence, offering a range of cocktails and teas from its newspaper style menus. Nunu’s is a sleek, modern bar on the opposite side of the road. If looking for a bite to eat, Salt has very good recommendations also, but is often full up…so make sure to book early!
Overall, Tirana has a long way to go before it becomes a major tourist hotspot, but it’s fighting spirit and young energy is certainly pushing it in the right direction. For culture hungry visitors, now is the time to visit to really appreciate the changes and the story behind such a strong willed nation. It is also a great place for the artsy travellers in search of bold, creative visions across the continent. Either way, I don’t expect Tirana will be under the radar for much longer… Perhaps it is time for the city to really step into the limelight.
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