Istanbul, Turkey.
The merging of east and west enchants even the most objective of travellers. Forming an hourglass between two continents, Istanbul cherry-picks the best of both Europe and Asia, giving it a unique complexity that nowhere else can capture in quite the same way. The city is not so much a fusion, but a mosaic of the exotic cultures and influences that passed through its gateway over the centuries.
Both the Ottoman and Byzantine empires appointed Istanbul as their capital, scattering architectural splendours across the city. The treasure trove neighbourhood of Sultanahmet contains the most concentrated collection, primarily around the Sultan Ahmet Park. The park lies between the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia and it is a serene place of manicured blossom trees and grand fountains. Fresh popcorn vendors set up their carts in the open areas which fills the air with sweet aromas. The oldest monument in the park is the Obelisk of Theodosius, brought back from Karnak in 301AD. Inscribed with a mix of Latin script and Egyptian hieroglyphics, it stands proud at the side entrance to the majestic Blue Mosque.
Peeking through the heavy wooden gateway, the Blue Mosque’s duck-egg blue domes and six towering minarets are instantly recognisable. Traditionally, mosques have up to four minarets, but it is thought a misunderstanding in the design led to six (alti) minarets built instead of gold (altin) ones. Entering the courtyard, you take in the full splendour of the striking building. Non-Muslims are welcome inside between prayer hours, and you should remove shoes and cover all skin and hair. The palatial room is a grand yet tranquil space, making even the most important person feel modest in its environment. On the floor, a rich carpet of red and gold is soft against your bare feet. Above, a delicate design of intricate blue and crimson pattern stretches the entire ceiling, reaching high into the domes, from which hang large crystal chandeliers.
The Hagia Sophia (https://hagiasophiaturkey.com), at the other end of the park, has redefined itself time and time again, yet it has never lost its personality. After starting its life as the ‘Holy Church of Wisdom’, the building then became a mosque for almost 500 years before transforming into a museum. In 2020, officials returned the building to a mosque. The doors haven’t been closed to visitors though; over three million people still visit the site every year. As an active places of worship though, non-Muslims are only welcome between prayer times. Inside, black and ochre scripture decorates the chasmic walls, creating a much bolder affair than the wonderfully intricate Blue Mosque. Make sure to wander upstairs and find the ‘graffiti’ on the wall, where Viking warriors etched their names into the stone during their conquests 1100 years ago.
Coffee making is considered an artform and has formed an integral part in Turkish culture. Turkish coffee is the oldest method of making coffee in the world, stemming from the Ottoman empire. Traditionally, the coffee is served alongside a glass of water; if you drink the water first, it signifies that you are hungry and the host will prepare food, but if you drink the coffee first then the host will assume that you are not. A fun place to experience Turkish coffee is Kybele Hotel (http://www.kybelehotel.com/). Squeezed in the middle of a row of brightly coloured buildings, there is no way you can miss this hotel and restaurant. It’s eclectic mix of colour and textures flow through the building, giving a quirk that would not feel out of place in Camden Market. Grab a seat in the rear courtyard for the best spot and enjoy your Turkish coffee in the sunshine.
'Traditionally, the coffee is served alongside a glass of water; if you drink the water first, it signifies that you are hungry and the host will prepare food, but if you drink the coffee first then the host will assume that you are not.'
Outrageous stories of love and deceit lie behind the forbidden walls of the Ottoman Imperial Harem. The Topkapi Palace (https://muze.gen.tr/muze-detay/topkapi), is the oldest and longest surviving palace in the world and much of it is still in a remarkable condition to explore. The palace gardens, fragranced by rose bushes and decorated by elaborate pergolas provide colour and shade, and show off the extraordinary backdrop of the Bosporus behind. Inside, beautiful mosaic tiles cover the majority of walls in the palace, in a mix of turquoise, gold and crimson. As you follow the route through the palace, take a mesmerizing glimpse into the lives of the opulent sultans, their untrustworthy advisors and their devoted concubines. Entry costs 100TL (£10), but if you wish to visit the harem you will have to purchase an additional ticket for 42TL (£4) at the entrance. I would recommend visiting the harem first, as the queues can get particularly long for this.
Prepare for your senses to be overwhelmed by over three thousand shops that sit within the Grand Bazaar. Rich, earthy spices immediately hit the back of your nostrils from the miniature sand dunes of the spice market. Saffron, one of the country’s most precious exports, can be found in many grades here alongside cinnamon sticks, dates and of course, Turkish delight. Soft cashmere scarves are stacked in rainbows to the ceiling, their delicate folds give way under your light touch. Glass lanterns colour the warm light, refracting it in different directions. It is a magical place and said to have has the most visitors in the history of our world. The bazaar can get busy during the day, so try and get there in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the crowds. For my top tips when haggling, visit XXX
The Bosporus Strait may separate Europe and Asia physically, yet water drifts between the two continents as easily as the people. There are two road bridges over to Anatolia, the Asian side, but the more popular method of crossing is by boat. Take time for a sun-soaked cruise up the waterway, taking in some of the riviera marvels, including the famous Çiragan Palace Hotel. Boats can be boarded regularly at the Eminönü ferry terminal at the tip of the Golden Horn inlet, and cost approximately 12TL (£1.20) for a short tour (two hours) and 25 TL (£2.50) for a longer one (three hours). The tours also offer the chance to disembark on the Anatolian side, so why not make the most of this and explore the districts of Kadıköy and Moda.
Whether you are looking for elegant restaurants or mouth-watering street food, Istanbul certainly has it all. Kebabs, possibly one of the most famous Turkish dishes, are said to have originated from the medieval soldiers in the country, who would roast chunks of meat on their swords for food. This basic dish transformed over time into a delicacy which is now eaten worldwide and hailed in the city. The most common type of kebab is lamb, but other types of meat, and vegetables are also easily available in most restaurants. For dinner with a view, head to Hamdi (https://hamdi.com.tr/), opposite the Eminönü ferry terminal. The restaurant serves local dishes in a relaxed atmosphere overlooking the Golden Horn, with a fantastic view of the Galata Tower.
Across the waters of the Golden Horn inlet lies the hip district of Galata. Once a place of rolling fig vineyards and later the bustling centre of merchants in the city, this area has creativity deep in its foundations. Regeneration has made it a hub for artistic minds to share ideas over Turkish coffee. The Galata tower defines the horizon here, which is worth a visit. After paying the 45TL (£5) entrance fee, there is a lift to the ninth floor, where you will find a restaurant and a set of spiral stairs taking you to the top. The spectacular view from the 360° viewing platform at the top makes up for the rather long queue to enter (can be up to an hour). Go at dusk, just as the city lights come on or even after dinner, when the tower is illuminated in spectacular purple lights.
For a completely different feel, head out of town to the suburban district of Floyra, near the old Atatürk airport. Wander along the pretty long coastal path, stopping in small fishing inlets and grassy parks that fill with local people having barbeques in the summer. But whether you decide to fill up on fresh fish or tasty barbeques, make space for dinner at Beyti (http://www.beyti.com/). This fascinating restaurant has served an extraordinary list of famous people in its past, from celebrities and royals to presidents and dictators. The walls of the entrance are adorned with gifts from the likes of Kate Moss, David Rockefeller and Richard Nixon. The food is local fine dining, and truly delicious.
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